How to Visit Budapest’s Secret Palace Library: the Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library

Did you know that inside a typical-looking public library in Budapest, there’s a secret palace library where you can browse and study?

The Budapest Central Library looks like your average, modern, municipal library from the outside and, indeed, even on in the inside. But hidden on the fourth floor of the building is the former Wenckheim Palace, a series of preserved palace rooms that now function as part of the library’s normal operations.

Tourists and city patrons alike can visit the stunning, ornately decorated rooms while studying, working, or just visiting. I’m a literary travel expert, so I seek out the best literary destinations everywhere I travel, and I’ve got to tell you, I’ve never seen anything like this. 

But the Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library is still one of the city’s best kept secrets and a true hidden gem in Budapest. In this post, I’ll tell you about how this library came to exist in its present form and how you can visit it yourself.

Don’t forget to pin this post for later and check out my youtube channel for video tours of interesting destinations for bookworms. 

Whenever possible, I recommend buying books at local bookshops or through Bookshop.org, because shopping there puts the profits right into the hands of indie bookstores all over the country.

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How the Palace Became a Library

The rooms that are now the Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library were once part of the Wenckheim, Palace, built in the second half of the 19th century by the aristocrat Count Frigyes Wenckheim (the architect was Artúr Meinig). 

The palace was a masterpiece of the Hungarian neo-Baroque style, with high ceilings, ornate carvings, white and gold motif, and dramatic floor-to-ceiling mirrors and windows. 

After the builder, Count Frigyes Wenkcheim, died in 1912, the Palace’s history got a little turbulent. It was occupied for a while by the Romanian army, but by 1920, it was back in the possession of the Wenckheims. 

The family put the palace up for sale in 1926, and the City Council of Budapest purchased it the following year to convert it into a library. Over the years, the City was forced to extend the library beyond the palace walls and built the modern library all around it to better meet the needs of the city. The most significant expansion and renovation occurred from 1998-2001. 

Today, not many books are housed in the palace rooms of the library, but tables still allow patrons to make themselves comfortable while working or studying in the rooms. Unsurprisingly, they also use the impressive rooms to host city events. 

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Related: If you enjoy visiting gorgeous libraries, consider extending your trip with a train ride to Prague. There are several Prague libraries that are among the most beautiful I’ve ever seen, including the Strahov Monastery library. Plus, you can visit a modern library to check out the famous Infinite Book Tunnel sculpture.

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How to Visit the Palace Library

The palace rooms inside the Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library have been restored and maintained for over a hundred years, but few people realize they’re even there, making this one of Budapest’s best-kept secrets.

Palace rooms that were once residential in purpose have been converted into more practical library use – the old dining room, for example, is now a stunningly beautiful reading room. Other rooms like the ballroom, the salons, and the Countess’s Boudoir have similarly been converted into rooms with study desks and comfortable chairs.

One highlight of the library rooms features two floors of rich, wooden bookshelves with ornate spiral staircases leading to the second floor of shelves. You can sit in here in an armchair by the fireplace and take in the grandeur of it all.  

Library members are free to use the palace rooms for work or study, and visitors to Budapest are welcome to pay 2000 HUF/person (approximately $5.20 US or €5) for a tourist pass. Children under the age of 6 are admitted free of charge. 

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to find these hidden rooms:

1. Enter the library from Revicky Street. Proceed to the ticket desk to purchase your one-day ticket, which is valid for the entire day on which you purchase it. 

2. Check in any coats or large bags at the free coat check to the left (this is required). Lockers are free to use, and instructions on how to lock and unlock them are provided in both Hungarian and English. 

3. Present your ticket at the ticket control area for admittance to the library.

4. Proceed up the spiral staircase or use the elevator to get to the fourth floor of the library. From here, it still looks like a normal city library. You’ll have to look for the discreet signs indicating the direction to the palace rooms. 

5. Once you locate the rooms, proceed through them at your own pace. You will be given a small brochure giving an overview of the rooms, but mostly you’re on your own to explore. Keep in mind this is a working library and not just a tourist destination, so always be considerate when walking through – keep your voice low, and be mindful of others when taking photos or videos. 

Related: If you’re a Harry Potter fan, consider grabbing a drink or meal at The Magic restaurant, a Harry Potter-inspired restaurant with two locations in Budapest. 

Other options for visiting:

If you want to do more than a self-guided walk through the palace library rooms, you have a few additional options for your visit that require advanced planning:

• Join the Library in the Palace guided walk: this is a guided walk through the palace with a focus on art history. It happens one Saturday morning a month, and there’s a maximum of 25 people per tour. You’ll need to email csoportvezetes@fszek.hu to find out about dates and register. 
• Join a private tour of the palace library: If you want to learn more about the palace as you walk through, you can book a tour with an English- or Hungarian-speaking guide for 5,000 HUF/person. You’ll have to plan ahead and email csoportvezetes@fszek.hu  to arrange this. 
• Book a group tour with Palace+: If you’re visiting in a group of at least 10 people, you can book a group tour. They recommend requesting their 2-hour Palace+ program, which includes a one-hour tour and a one-hour musical performance. This must be arranged at least two weeks in advance of your visit by emailing csoportvezetes@fszek.hu.

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Tips for Visiting

Here are some of my tips to make the most out of your visit to the Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library:

• Remember that this is a working library, and be respectful of those studying or working while you’re visiting. Don’t be loud or obnoxious while taking photographs or videos. 
• If you don’t want a guided tour, no need to book in advance – just show up when you’d like to visit and buy your ticket on-site. 
• Children under the age of 6 get free admission
• You can request the code for the library’s Wi-Fi network at the front desk when you buy a ticket
• The library is closed on Sundays and public holidays
• While you’re in the area, consider checking out the nearby literature museum as well as Di-Plant and Libra, two of Budapest’s best bookstores for English readers. 

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Other Budapest Favorites

Budapest is such a fun city to explore. Here are some of my other favorite activities from my time in the city:

• A walking tour of the Buda Castle district & Fisherman’s Bastion (self-guided or by guided walking tour)
• A ruin pub crawl of the famous ruin bars and clubs
• Shopping at the Gozsdu Weekend Market for unique souvenirs and hand-made items
• A night-time visit to an ancient Turkish bath (the Rudas Spa), including the rooftop pool with views of the city
• An evening dinner cruise on the Danube River
• Dining at one of Budapest’s Michelin star restaurants
• Exploring the best Budapest bookstores

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Finding Accommodations in Budapest

I really enjoyed my stay at the 5-star Mystery Hotel Budapest, which is a great combination of luxury and whimsy. Plus, it has easy access to public transportation and is within walking or taxi distance of all the main Budapest attractions.

If you’re looking for privately owned vacation rentals, I recommend checking VRBO. I’ve personally had much better experiences with their owners and rentals than I have with their primary competitor.

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What other cities in Europe are you traveling to and looking for literary travel tips? Feel free to email me and request a guide to a new city!

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